The Rolex Submariner. The name alone conjures images of rugged adventure, deep-sea exploration, and timeless elegance. It's a watch that transcends mere timekeeping; it's a statement, a legacy, a piece of horological history. Within the Submariner family, the no-date variant holds a special place, often favored by purists for its clean, uncluttered dial and its arguably more robust construction. This review focuses on a week spent with the Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060, the current iteration of this iconic timepiece, to explore what makes it so captivating and enduring. It’s the world's most scrutinized dive watch, so any tiny change reverberates like an earthquake. But the truth is, the subtle refinements in this latest model speak volumes about Rolex's unwavering commitment to excellence.
A Week on the Wrist: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
The 124060, replacing the 114060, immediately commands attention. Its 41mm Oyster case, crafted from 904L stainless steel, feels substantial and reassuringly weighty on the wrist. The brushed finish, particularly noticeable on the sides of the case, subtly contrasts with the polished bezel, creating a pleasing interplay of light and shadow. This isn't a watch that tries to be flashy; its elegance is understated, refined, and undeniably masculine. The iconic unidirectional rotating bezel, with its crisp 60-minute graduations, is a joy to manipulate. The click is satisfyingly precise, providing tactile feedback that instills confidence in its accuracy.
The matte black dial is arguably the most striking feature. Clean, unadorned, and devoid of a date window, it’s a testament to minimalist design. The luminous hour markers and hands, enhanced by Chromalight, offer exceptional legibility in low-light conditions. This is crucial for a dive watch, and Rolex has consistently delivered on this front. The legibility is not merely good; it's exceptional, even in challenging environments. The hands are perfectly proportioned, neither too thick nor too thin, and their design reflects a heritage that spans decades.
The Oyster bracelet, another hallmark of Rolex craftsmanship, is equally impressive. The solid links are meticulously crafted, providing a comfortable and secure fit. The Glidelock clasp allows for precise adjustment without the need for tools, making it incredibly versatile for various wrist sizes and activities. The bracelet’s durability is legendary, capable of withstanding the rigors of daily wear and more demanding situations. The feel of the bracelet is substantial, yet surprisingly comfortable even during extended wear. It's a testament to Rolex's attention to detail in every aspect of the watch's construction.
The movement powering the 124060 is the Calibre 3230, an in-house movement known for its precision, reliability, and power reserve of approximately 70 hours. This is a significant improvement over the previous generation's movement, offering increased efficiency and robustness. The accuracy during my week-long test was impeccable, consistently within the COSC-certified chronometer standards. This is expected from a Rolex, but it's a testament to their unwavering commitment to precision timekeeping.
The water resistance of 300 meters (1,000 feet) is more than sufficient for most diving activities, and the screw-down crown ensures that the movement remains protected even under significant pressure. While I didn't personally test the depth rating, the confidence it inspires is undeniable. The watch feels robust and reliable, built to withstand the most challenging conditions.
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